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You can spend a lot on a t-shirt and still look off if the fit is wrong — and you can look genuinely sharp in a simple tee that fits properly. Fit does almost all the work. Here are the four things to check, and how to pick the cut that suits you.
The Four Fit Checkpoints
1. Shoulders — the one that matters most
The shoulder seam should sit right at the edge of your shoulder, where your arm meets your torso. Too far down the bicep and the tee reads oversized and sloppy; too far in toward the neck and it pulls tight and looks small. Get the shoulder right and everything else is adjustable — get it wrong and no amount of styling fixes it.
2. Sleeves — mid-bicep, ending clean
Sleeves should end around the middle of your bicep and lie flat without billowing or squeezing. A sleeve that flares out looks baggy; one that grips like a band looks like you sized down. A slightly fitted sleeve — like the cut on the Muscle Half Crop — frames the arm without compression.
3. Length — end at the belt, not the fly
A standard tee should end around the middle of your fly / your belt line — long enough to tuck if you want, short enough to leave out cleanly. Anything past the crotch starts to shorten the legs and drag the whole silhouette down. This is exactly why we cut our tees at a half-crop length — it keeps the proportion clean and the waistline visible.
4. Body — skims, doesn't cling or drape
The torso should follow your shape without gripping it. You want a clean line down the sides — not fabric pooling (too big) and not stretched horizontal creases (too small). A good test: pinch the fabric at your side. An inch or two of give is the sweet spot.
Fitted, Relaxed, or Boxy? Pick Your Cut
| Cut | Looks like | Try |
|---|---|---|
| Fitted | Follows the frame, structured | Muscle Half Crop |
| Relaxed | Easy, lived-in, textured | Brando Slub |
| Boxy / dropped-shoulder | Wider, shorter, vintage feel | Vintage Half Crop |
One note on boxy tees: a dropped-shoulder cut is meant to sit off the shoulder, so the "shoulder seam on the edge" rule flexes here. What keeps it intentional rather than oversized is length — a boxy tee should be cropped shorter to balance the extra width, which is exactly how the Vintage line is drafted.
Why Fabric Changes the Fit
Two tees in your size can fit differently depending on the knit. A dense jersey holds its shape and reads more structured; a lightweight slub drapes softer and moves more. That's not a flaw — it's how you get range from a few tees. (More on that in our guide to cotton knits.) All of ours are 100% organic cotton, so they soften and settle into their best fit after the first few washes — hold to a cold wash and air dry and that fit stays true.
Still Between Two Sizes?
Size down for a cleaner, more fitted look; size up for relaxed and easy. If your priority is the shoulder sitting right, let that decide — it's the hardest thing to fake and the first thing people notice.
FAQ: T-Shirt Fit
Where should a t-shirt end?
Around your belt line / mid-fly for a standard tee — long enough to tuck, short enough to wear out cleanly. Past the crotch and it starts shortening your legs visually.
Should a t-shirt be tight or loose?
Neither — it should skim. Fitted enough to show a clean line, loose enough to pinch an inch of fabric at the side. Compression and tent are both the wrong end.
How do I know if the shoulders fit?
The shoulder seam should land right where your shoulder ends and your arm begins. On a boxy, dropped-shoulder tee it intentionally sits lower — balanced out by a shorter, cropped length.
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